Regional recipes

I am never punctual when it comes to my blog (or life in general, for that matter), but I come through in the end. So here I am with some traditional recipes, from the island of Lesvos or Agiasos in particular.

Cabbage rolls filled with cod

makes 4 average-sized portions

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cod (here we sell each piece of fish individually, they are really salty and you need to put them in cold water from the night before, in order to get them ready to use. Change the water 3-4 times.)
• 1 big cabbage, separated into cabbage leaves
• 1 cup white rice
• 2 onions, minced
• 1 tomato, grated (made into tomato pulp)
• a handful of fresh parsley and spearmint
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• pepper to your liking

Preparation:

1. Cut the cod into tiny pieces and place it in a bowl.
2. Add the rice, onions, tomato, parsley, spearmint, pepper and 1 tablespoon of olive oil into the bowl and mix well with a spoon.
3. Boil some water into a large pot and dip the cabbage leaves in it, for about 2 minutes. Drain.
4. Take each cabbage leave, fill it with some of the bowl mixture and close it, forming a roll.
5. Place your rolls into a large pot, add the olive oil, enough water so that all are covered, and cover the pot with a dish, turned upside down. Cook for about an hour, in low temperature.
   
   

Sfougato (oven-baked zucchini omelet)

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 kg grated zucchini
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 3 tablespoons butter, melted
• 2 1/2 cups feta cheese, crumbled
• 1 1/2 cup hard cheese (like parmesan, for example), grated
• a bunch of fresh parsley or dill, chopped
• 6 eggs
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1/2 cup heavy cream or evaporated milk
• 2 tablespoons bread crumbs
• salt and pepper to your liking
  
  

Preparation:

1. Place the grated zucchini in a colander, add salt and let them drain for about an hour, occasionally pressing them with a spoon.
2. Place them in a bowl and add the feta cheese, the parmesan, the parsley/dill, 2 tablespoons flour and some pepper.
3. Beat 5 eggs with heavy cream/evaporated milk and gradually add them to the bowl too.
4. Butter a medium-sized pan and add the bread crumbs at the bottom.
5. In a small pot, melt the rest of the butter with the olive oil and combine it with the yolk of the 6th egg.
6. Put the bowl mixture into the pan, top it with the butter/olive oil/egg yolk mixture, sprinkle with some water and bake at 360 F for approximately 50 minutes.

Bon apetit!

So... now that you know the procedure, what do you say? Does it seem easy or hard? What hit you as weird/unfamiliar? I have to add that the Greeks are generally non-measure cooks, but I tried to be as precise as possible, when it came to ingredient amounts.

In my next post, I will be posting the recipe for giouzlemedes and anthoi. Until then, eat well and have fun!

Mmmm... what are we having?

Hello, hello! It is time for a new post today. And since you asked for regional recipes last time, you're gonna get some authentic ones.

But first, a quick introduction (or revision) on what people from the island of Mytilene usually eat. As all Greeks, they love fresh vegetables, herbs, olive oil and fish. But in order to honour their own beloved drink "ouzo", they have it with a lot of appetizers, or "mezedes", as they are called here. Sometimes, there is no main course that follows, and dinner consists merely of an assortment of those yummy mezedes.

In order to give you a better idea on what we Greeks eat, I will provide you with a menu that you would be likely to find in a typical restaurant here. So grab your (virtual) forks and let's go! Beware: Major drooling ahead!

Mezedes

• Giouzlemedes: Little cheese pies, fried.



• Anthoi: Zucchini flowers stuffed with zucchini filling, cheese and herbs.




• Bourekakia: Fried rolls, stuffed with cheese and ham.






• Sfougato: Zucchini omelet, oven-baked.






• Tzatziki: Classic appetizer consisting of Greek yoghurt, cucumber, garlic and (sometimes) dill.




• Kavourosalata: Crab salad with mayo.


• Taramosalata: Appetizer usually eaten during Lent, consisting of mashed fish eggs (sounds weird, but tastes delicious).





• Patatokeftedes: Fried potato-cheese balls.
  
  

Salads

• Greek salad / Horiatiki: Another classic, made with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, feta cheese, and an olive oil-vinegar-oregano dressing.




• Green salad: Various "green" stuff, usually "wild" ones, aka collected from mountain slopes and not gardens.
  




• Beet salad: With a vinegar and mashed garlic dressing.

Main courses

• Grilled octopus




• Fresh fish, fried or grilled


• Fried calamari



• Grilled sausages



• Kopsidia: Grilled pork pieces.


• Fried meatballs

Desserts

• Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts


• Halvas

• "Spoon" dessert: Made with boiled fruit and sugar.

Bon apetit!

So, that was it... I'll give you some time to dream about all this delicious food, and I will come back with some recipes! I hope you liked it!

Agiasos: The place to be (?)

I realised I have written about my job as a village doctor before, but I have yet to describe the village itself. So... it's time for that too.

The place where I am now working is called Agiasos. It is a traditional and pictoresque village, with approximately 3,000 inhabitants. It is built at the slopes of Mount Olympus (not the famous one, which was supposedly where the Greek Gods resided - this one is in Central Greece), at an altitude of 500 metres.

If you are a fan of nature and you love long walks on steep slopes, enjoying the magnificent view and passing through olive groves and chestnut forests, Agiasos really is the place to be. But also if you choose to stick to the housing itself, you can wander at its cobbled streets and photograph its preserved buildings.

Agiasos took its name from the image of "Saint Sion" or "Agia-Sion" in Greek. This was a picture of Holy Mary, painted by Saint Lucas. It was brought here at 802 AD from Jerusalem. A church dedicated to Virgin Mary was built 2 centuries later, and the settlement gradually developed around it. The picture is considered miraculous even to this day, and hundreds of people rush to worship it on 15th August, where the Orthodox honour the Mother of Jesus. A great festival takes place here, and some people even come from Mytilene (22 kms away) on foot. (Yes, a crazy doctor you may know attempted this last summer, she might have scratched her knees in the process, but she finally made it to the village in one piece!)

But this is the info on Agiasos that you can easily find online. I guess you expected more from me - and you are gonna get it. One cannot begin to know Agiasos, if he/she doesn't become aquainted with its people and their mentality.

The people from Agiasos... now that's a long story! Before I came here, I had heard a lot on this matter. The people from Mytilene accused them often - they were "tight on the money the spent", "rude", "they disliked foreigners", "overly proud of themselves", "they fed on fights and arguments" and so on. Literally everybody on this island seemed to dislike them, and I have to admit I was a little prejudistic when I first arrived here.

And now? Well, after spending 5 months here, I have come to know them a little better. Setting the fact that I am in love with one of them aside (major LOL), they are not so bad after all. It all depends on how you behave when you first meet them - if you start with contempt, you are sure to get some back.

Ok, they are not the most sociable people on the island. They are not the ones who smile idiotically at tourists, and rushing to meet their every need, only to curse them under their teeth later. Having lived at a mildly isolated environment, and depending on anything but tourism to earn a living (they turned to farming and wood carving instead), they have grown to be mildly suspicious of new faces. But once they like somebody, they become really open-hearted and friendly to him/her.

Tight on money? No, not really. As all Greeks, every night you go out and have some ouzo or wine, you are most likely to have somebody buy one more bottle for you. Also, I experienced their generosity as their doctor - when you make a home visit, you simply cannot leave without a "tip" (I personally try to avoid them as much as possible), some fresh eggs, sweets or other goodies.

Proud of themselves? Well yes, they are. They definitely are. But they might have some reason to be. It is impossible to be on the island, and not find someone from Agiasos at key places like the area of health, education or the government. Also, they have managed to preserve their specific characteristics through the centuries, such as their traditions or their dialect. If you are not from around here, you are unlikely to understand what they are saying to you. They have their own festivals, their Carnival, they defend their arts and customs with great passion - and sincerely, I wish we all did the same thing at our own villages.

So, is Agiasos the Paradise on Earth? Of course not. There are days where I cannot stand the mist and the cold, and I crave for some sunshine instead. Sometimes, I get tired of trees and mountains, and I want to enjoy some amazing sea views to relax. And of course, being blunt and speaking your mind out loud can occasionaly be quite tiring - some old fashioned savoir vivre and politiness wouldn't be bad.

But overall, I feel lucky to have come here. Learning some dialect, enjoying some new customs and getting in touch with my true self. Dealing with difficult situations and discovering that, surprisingly, I can make it.

And yes, falling in love does add to the positive points a little bit... :P

Where have you been, young lady?????!!!!!

I know, I know - I am a terrible blogger. I write less posts than Paris Hilton wears undies, so I get it if you don't want to hang out at my place any more.

To my defence, I haven't had an internet connection for several weeks. But honestly, that's not reason enough. Because I could have gone on a crusade and done whatever needed to be done, never stopping, never getting tired, until I found a way to post. My mom doesn't call me a stubborn mule for no reason. I could have done it... had I been focused.

But alas, I were anything but focused. But hey, don't blame me and my wandering mind. Don't blame the hospital and the hard work, or the merciless sun, or the occassional fling either (for the record, there hasn't been any of the latter! :( ) My friends, if you need to blame somebody / something, blame the water.

The crystal, refreshing, gorgeous water of the beaches of Mytilene. I have actually been more of a dolphin than a human for the last weeks. Ok, the glittering sand, the breathtaking landscapes, the fun company and the delicious cocktails served at beach bars rule also, but the water is something else.

And to prove this to you, this is where I have been for the last weeks:

1) Eresos: My favourite beach in the whole island (located a little over 1 1/2 hours from Mytilene). Several kilometers of white sand, crystal clean water, a laid-back atmosphere and friendly people are all it takes to feel at home. Seriously, Eresos is the most relaxing place in the whole world for me so far.

2) Agios Isidoros: Time for a dive in a "Blue Lagoon" scenery. The colours of the water are amazing, and the white pebbles are ideal for those who are not very fond of sand.

3) Agios Ermogenis: If you want to find the best beach there is, while staying at a close proximity to Mytilene, look no futher. Once you enjoy the panoramic view of the beach, you will be hooked - one glance will be enough to fall in love with it! Also, the unique scenery with the pine trees virtually getting into the sea and the little white church up the hill will add to your infatuation.

4) Faneromeni: Not for the weak of heart. Located near Sigri, the westernmost part of the island, Faneromeni is rarely calm. Instead, it is windy, wild, deserted and non-organised. It almost makes you feel unwanted there. Unfortunately, most passionate love stories start with contempt and rejection - and before you realise it, you will keep coming back for more!

5) Anaxos: This is the best beach in the northern part of the island. Anaxos is a strange story indeed. While being organised, with umbrellas and water sports, family - oriented and surrounded by cafes and restaurants, the water is still crystal clean and manages to enchant beach snobs like myself. I don't know how it does it, but every time I go there, I greatly enjoy it.

This is my top 5 of the beaches of Lesvos so far. But the list doesn't stop here. Charamida, Ksampelia, Vatera, Molyvos, Eftalou, Chroussos are all amazing beaches too. And the best part? I have many more to discover!

So there, enjoy some pictures of the aforementioned beaches. I hope you like them, and they make up for the hiatus my blog is going through every now and then.

Or instead, you can hate me for making you jealous and decide to follow me never again. Oh, cr@p!

Give me a break!

After a series of posts regarding the true joy of practicing the medical profession in Greece, I guess it is time for a short break. Of course, my description of the ideal circumstances in which doctors work every single day will continue, but for now, enough is enough. (At this point, I realised I sound a lot like Karen's Not me! posts, so I'll give it up and start being literal). Anyway, a big part of my everyday life is the amazing island of Lesvos, and it's a shame I haven't got a chance to talk about it yet.

As I have written before, Lesvos is the 3rd biggest island of Greece. It is part of the North Aegean district (sometimes referred to as North-Eastern Aegean district) and it is really close to Turkey. Its capital city is Mytilene (that's where I'm living right now), and its population is estimated at 30,000 people.

But because Mytilene definitely deserves a post or two of its own, and I still haven't gotten to photograph all its beauties, today I will write about a place I visited on Sunday - the village Mantamados and its legendary Taxiarhes Monastery.

Now, I am by no means a religious person. However, I sometimes like to visit different places of worship, and get to feel the atmosphere. Most of them are peaceful and relaxing, others are imposing and awe-inspiring.

Mantamados is a small village on the northern part of the island, 37 kms off Mytilene. It is traditional and picturesque. Its cobbled streets and its well-preserved stone houses make you feel like you have travelled back in time. Its inhabitants are either craftsmen, well-known for their pottery skills, or farmers, producing the famous Mantamados yoghurt.

But the area is better known for the Taxiarhes Monastery. A miraculous icon of Taxiarhis, patron Saint of the entire island, is kept there, and people from all over the world travel to the site, to see and worship it.

Before we continue, a quick introduction to Orthodox religion. I am not sure what Catholics do (please be so kind to fill me in on this matter), but the Orthodox draw pictures, known as hagiographies, of Jesus Christ, Holly Mary and their Saints. Every church has its own and, as each temple is dedicated to a Saint, icons of that particular Saint mostly prevail. When the Orthodox go to church, they usually kneel before an icon, pray in front of it, or simply do the cross sign and then kiss it. I fail to describe it properly and it may all sound a bit weird. The main idea is that, through the picture, you communicate with the Saint depicted on it, and ask for his/her forgiveness, help, etc. These icons are considered to be holly items, and in some circumstances, they are even believed to perform miracles.

Of course, I get that you may be skeptical to all this. It's ok, I am too. Every now and then, icons are supposed to "bleed", or "shed tears", "heal" or "appear at unexpected places". Most of these "miracles" end up to be scams. But whether miracles trully take place is not really the point of this post. The point is, all of them are sacred to believers, and thousands of people come to see them for themselves every year. And the icon of Taxiarhis in particular is not only famous, but also unique.

Why? Because, unlike every other Orthodox icon there is, this one is not painted. Instead, it is carved. Normally, the Orthodox religion wouldn't allow that. But due to the fact that the icon is considered to be miraculous, and there is a great story about how it was made, it has been preserved through the years.

Before I tell you that story, I have to point out that Taxiarhis, or Michael, often depicted carrying a sword and wearing metal shoes, is one of the three Angels bearing the message of God (also known as Archangels). The other two are Gabriel, the one that presented in front of Mary to announce that She would give birth to Jesus Christ, and Raphael. All three of them are celebrated on November 8th, when it is a public holiday here in Lesvos. A grand parade is held in the centre of Mytilene, while churches that are dedicated to these 3 Saints celebrate and organise fairs for the pilgrims.

So, our story begins between the 9th and 10th century AC, when Muslim pirates often came to this island, to attack, burn, destroy and slaughter. At that time, the fortress - like Taxiarhes monastery was dedicated to the Archangels and was famous for its greatness and wealth. What a better target for the pirates then, right? So, one night, they used ropes to climb over the walls, surprised the monks during Mass, and slaughtered them all with their swords.

All but one, in fact. Because a 17-year old trainee, young Gabriel, managed to escape through the window and climbed the roof, trying to get away. Unfortunately, after taking all the monastery's property, the pirates saw him, and tried to capture him. After all, they didn't want to leave any witnesses behind, as young Gabriel could alarm the inhabitants of nearby villages of the presence of pirates. The villagers, in turn, could block the pirates' way to the sea and fight them. As you see, it was necessary that nobody was left alive.

But as the pirates approached Gabriel with the swords drawn, a miracle is believed to have taken place. The roof suddenly transformed into a windy sea, and in the middle rose Taxiarhis, mighty and furious, his sword in hand, ready to attack.

Having seen him, naturally the pirates panicked and fled to the sea, while leaving all their loot behind. The monastery was saved. But wait, there's more to it: The next day, all of the pirates were found dead at the shore, killed with a great stab wound, starting from the forehead and ending at the belly button. And as no man could have been so powerful to inflict such a blow, Taxiarhis was thought to have caused it with his sword.

When Gabriel realised that he was safe, he returned to the monastery to help the other monks. But when he saw all of them dead, a divine inspiration came upon him: He collected their blood, mixed it with clay, and, out of great awe and gratitude, tried to create an icon of the Saint, recreating the shape he saw on the roof. Unfortunately, the clay was not enough to make the Saint's whole body - and that's why his head is disproportionately large, compared to the rest of it.

So that is the story of Taxiarhis, protector of the Monastery and the whole island. And no matter if you believe in all this or not, this place is a must-see if you're ever visiting Lesvos. Because there, in an opening surrounded by olive groves and a pine forest, you may come in touch with your true self and spirituality. And feel like a tiny particle of the universe, but unique and important at the same time too.

After going to the Monastery, we visited another village, Skala Sykamnias, and had lunch at a Greek tavern by the sea. And there, eating grilled sardines, octopus, traditional grilled cheese "ladotyri", drinking the trademark ouzo (well, I opted for wine, but still), while watching the Turkish coast at the horizon, I realised, once again, that I live in a beautiful country. It's not obvious all the time, but it's nice to feel it every now and then.

All in all, it was a great day...

Welcome to Athens! (part 3)

Hello, blog buddies! This is the last and final call... err, post about Athens, the capital of Greece. Today we will be focusing more on Greek mentality and way of life. I kind of feel like a spy, because I will be giving you "confidential" and inside information but... here we go!

5 things I love about Athens

• The first one would definitely be the climate. It is really difficult to feel down when there is sunshine for more than 300 days a year. When the colour of the sky is the most amazing and clear blue you have ever seen, how could YOU be blue? According to official studies, the Greeks have the lowest incidence for depression in the world. Well, the weather certainly contributes to that.


• Athens is a city that never sleeps, a 24/7 city. There are always people on the streets and open places to eat, drink and have fun. Unlike other European cities, life doesn't stop as soon as the sun goes down. In fact, that's when things get more lively!

• The Greek hospitality is not a myth. Ok, it is not as easy to come by as 50 years ago, as Athens gets bigger by the second and people are more self-absorbed nowadays. But, it is definitely there. You can see it once you will need help, directions or information. You can ask the perfect stranger in the street for those, and not only will you get an answer (accompanied with a smile) instantly, but the person may even take you to your place of interest himself/herself!

• When you walk to the same cobbled streets that millions of people have walked before you over the centuries, you have a surreal feeling. Somehow, you feel that it is all connected - past, present and future. You feel whole, in a way that cannot easily be explained with words. Like you discover your own personal place throughout history - it's tinier than tiny, but it's there.


• There is only one thing that rivals the amazing Greek sky, and that is the breathtaking beauty of the Greek sea. It is widely accepted that there are far more notable beaches at the Greek islands. Nobody can argue with that. But the Athenian sea can still be seen and immensely enjoyed.

5 things I hate about Athens

• Athens is one of the few European cities that still suffer in terms of public transport, cars and traffic. The fact that the Greeks had to wait for the Olympic Games of 2004 to get metro for the first time, is rather embarassing. As you can imagine, with 5 million moving around every day, and a subway system that is still developing and cannot possibly serve more than 1 million, things can get pretty hectic. The Athenians may have come to terms with the fact that they have to wake up 2 hours earlier, because they will definitely have to face a traffic jam going to work (even if their office is only 5 - 10 kms away), but the average tourist is not prepared for this mess. And honestly, why should he/she be? Luckily, if you stick to the centre and don't venture to the outer districts, the public transport will serve you perfectly.


• Athens is painfully expensive, especially when it comes to food and drinks. While the metro ticket will only cost 0.70 euros / 1 dollar (one of the cheapest in Europe), and most of the sites will be free, you are likely to get a heart attack when you will be asked to pay at least 5 euros / 6.5 dollars for a single coffee! And, to be fair with Ernestos and his dislike for Lykavittos hill, if you go there, the minimum for the same coffee will be 7 euros / 9 dollars! This stuff is NOT for the faint-hearted.

• Athenian taxi drivers have a nasty reputation for ripping off locals and tourists alike. Outrageous stories, charging tourists 50 dollars for a distance of 1.5 kms, are unfortunately true. So, a little tip: Never, and I mean NEVER enter a taxi, unless you agree on the tariff beforehand. It is ok to ask how much it will probably cost, and then decide if you are ok with it.
  

• Greeks have quite a temper, demand a lot from their governors, and they don't like to be treated unfairly. As a result, whenever they disagree with a government bill or a political decision, they protest and go on a strike, asking for amendments. It is quite complex to explain, but this is not the time or the place for that. As a tourist, you will face the aftermath: Closed sites, jammed streets, and unavailable public transport. If you are unlucky enough to be in Athens during a strike, there is no real tips I can give you - just try to be patient.

• It is hard to be a pedestrian in Athens. There are no pavements at all, or those who exist are uneven and even full of holes. Add in the infuriating way in which most Greeks drive (speeding, having no respect for traffic lights and parking in the most absurd places available), and you'll realise that walking on foot at places with heavy traffic is no fun - no fun at all.

When in Athens, DO:

• Walk the Ancient promenade, enjoy the sun and fresh air and ponder about how many generations have followed the same route as you do now, over the centuries.

• Try the Greek specialties, and explore new tastes.

• Enjoy the hospitality of locals, their warm smile and generous ways. When having a conversation with Greeks, it is ok to ask about personal matters, age, income or marital status - just be prepared to answer these questions yourself!

• Dine late (Greek restaurants are quite empty before 9 pm), hop into a bar and sleep in the next morning.

• Spend an evening at an open-air cafe, sipping a "frappe" and watching people pass by. The famous frappe is a Greek legend - to be fair, it is not THAT special, but just a frothy version of iced coffee made with an instant brew. I personally don't like it, and it's ok (although I occasionally get shunned for it). But before you make up your mind, you have to try it.

• Be carefree, and leave your stress behind. Not only are you on vacation, but you are in a place where people just don't think about things too much - try to follow their example, even for a few days!
  
  
  

When in Athens, DON'T:

• Wear sandals with socks. If you do so, you label yourself as a tourist.


• Believe in the stereotype that wants Greeks eager to smash plates in places with live music (bouzoukia), when enjoying themselves. This was ok 50 years ago. Nowadays, if you want to do something similar, you can throw flowers (carnations) at the singer, or napkings. But beware: This is a pricey thing to do, as you have to pay for the napkins or flowers afterwards!


• Get disappointed when you discover what heavy smokers Greeks are. It is frustrating, but true. There is already a law that prohibits smoking in public places, but as with everything else, it is only loosely followed. According to European union laws, smoking WILL be banned at restaurants/cafes/etc the following summer, but I personally have to see it to believe it.


• Expect to dine peacefully when there are Greeks in the same place. We are outgoing, expressive and LOUD, and yet unaware of that. To us, the Spanish seem awfully loud and annoying. When travelling to Europe, though, my friends and I always get mistaken for Spanish, so there really isn't much difference!


• Insist on paying for the meal or sharing, when at least one of the persons you eat with is Greek! This is considered a HUGE insult - guests just don't pay! Like, EVER! (If you want to be extra polite, you can suggest sharing, but accept the treat with no further disagreement when it is offered).


• Our relationship with the Turks is a long and troubled one. The things is that, after 400 years of domination (1453 - 1821 A.C.), the two nations have come to share many traditions, words and habits - more than they care to admit. So, no, DON'T argue whether the baklava is Greek or Turkish, if the right term is "gyros" or "doner kebab", or if you are indeed drinking Greek coffee and not Turkish coffee. There are some things that are considered Greek, and not Turkish, and we choose to overlook their real origin. Just let it be. Nobody will be hostile after such comments in any case, but you are sure to cause some discomfort. Try to avoid it.


• Claim to be familiar with Greek history and mythology just by watching "300", "Troy", "Hercules" and "Xena". While you may have enjoyed these films/shows, they have all greatly distorted the actual story and original data. It is ok to be unfamiliar with Greek civilisation - sadly most modern Greeks are, after all. Just don't try to sound like a connoisseur based on the aforementioned productions. You are sure to induce laughter and irony. And by the way, to us Greeks, Alexander the Great was an admirable leader who managed to conquer most of the then known world - not just a plain homo caring about nothing else than to hook up with Haephestion (no pun intended)!

• Complain about how Greeks cannot organise things, follow schedules, take on responsibilities and be respectful to others, in terms of noise and smoke. All these are true. But, to enjoy yourselves more, focus on the positive things: That we are warm people, sincere, generous and fun to be with. We are not famous for our kindness or tact, but we are always there when they need us, no matter what. Lastly, we make great friends - friends for a lifetime...
  
  
  
  
  

Welcome to Athens! (part 2)

In the previous post, we talked about which sights a person visiting Athens should not miss (in my opinion, of course!). This post is about Greek food, Greek mentality and way of life.

5 things to eat (or 10!)

1. Well... you guessed it! Is it POSSIBLE to visit Greece and not taste the no 1 delicacy, souvlaki? Of course not. Souvlaki is the first "emergency food" that comes to mind when your fridge is empty, or when you're not in the mood to cook. You can have it on the go, before or after you hop into a bar and you can find it everywhere, 24 hours a day! Seriously, a neighbourhood doesn't always have a grocery store, or a bakery shop, but it will most definitely have a place where you can have souvlaki (or, as it is called in Greek, a "souvlatzidiko").

But what is souvlaki exactly? Well, even the Greeks cannot agree on that! People from Crete claim that Athenians have no clue what the "original" souvlaki is, while the inhabitants of Salonica laugh at the rest for their ignorance. If we want to be precise, though, there are 3 kinds of "souvlaki": Pita with meat in skewers, pita gyros and pita kebab.

The original "souvlaki" is just the first one: Pita bread, filled with pork or chicken chunks in a skewer, tomato slices, onion slices and tzatziki sauce. Tzatziki sauce is made with greek yoghurt, cucumber, lots of garlic and (sometimes) dill.

What about french fries? Well, it depends on the region you are in. In Athens, no french fries are added, while on Crete, french fries are essential.

So, if you order souvlaki, it will be something like this:

This is the meat in skewers. Of course, you can even order these individually (without any pita bread, meat only). But if you want pita souvlaki, the skewer will be removed, the aforementioned ingredients will be used, and the end result will be something like this:

Pita gyros has the same basic ingredients, but the meat is different. It is now not in skewers, but in a tall vertical spit, which turns around a source of heat. It is quite similar to the Middle Eastern doner kebab.

Then, the meat is sliced vertically and the end result will be something like this:

Finally, pita kebab is filled with lamb meat, minced and placed on a stick, like this (then, a pita bread is used, and the same "procedure" follows):

2. Now that you are a souvlaki expert, we can move on to other Greek dishes. The second one is not a surprise, either: Mousakas! It is a layered baked dish, consisting of fried potato slices, fried eggplant slices, ground beef, bechamel sauce (made with milk and flour) and ground cheese sprinkled on top. It demands quite a lot of preparation when making it at home and to be honest, it is quite a calorie bomb, but it tastes so good, that it should be illegal! Some people (my mom included!) also use fried zucchini at the bottom, but this is not typical.

3. Pastitsio has some things in common with mousaka, as it is layered as well. A kind of bucatini or other tubular pasta is used at the bottom, then ground beef, seasoned with nutmeg and cinnamon, toppped by another layer of pasta. After that, the same bechamel sauce follows and, finally, ground cheese is sprinkled on top.

4. Feeling full, aren't you? Well, I don't blame you at all - even hard core Greeks cannot handle pastitsio after mousaka! So, next day's dinner should be lighter. What about seafood? Fried calamari, or grilled octopus are a staple in Greek cuisine, and can be perfectly accompanied with a glass of ouzo. Ouzo is an alcoholic beverage, consisting of ethyl alcohol (coming from sugar cane), water and a mixture of herbs, such as aniseed, fennel, liquorice, cinnamon, cardamom, mastic and others (each producer uses his own combination). It can be consumed straight, or diluted with water, which produces a cloudy appearance. If not drinked with caution, it can cause a mean hangover!

Fried calamari

Grilled octopus

Ouzo - it accompanies seafood perfectly

5. And to give you some vegeterian options as well, if you visit Athens during the summer, you can order gemista, which is a baked dish with tomatoes, peppers (and sometimes zucchini), stuffed with rice. Prior to stuffing, the rice has been simmered in a tomato sauce, with onions, garlic and spearmint as well. This dish is amazing, and it will look like this:

And of course, it goes without saying that you will have to try the Greek salad, or "village salad", as the exact translation would be. In fact, this is a staple in every Greek lunch or dinner. If you want to be true to its "original" form, it will have to contain tomatoes, onions, cucumber, olives and feta cheese, drizzled with olive oil and vinegar, with some oregano sprinkled on top too. It wouldn't be unusual to add some green bell pepper slices, while in the islands people also use capers.

So, that's it with the food suggestions. Before we move on, however, I have to make a small observation. I kind of sabotaged myself with these recommendations - in the previous posts I tried to persuade you about the health benefits of Greek diet, and now I am giving you calorie bombs and fried stuff! THAT doesn't sound healthy at all, does it? Well, Greek people don't eat like this every single day (in fact, my mom complained for a month after having to make mousaka, and we were all doomed to have 5 minute meals for an indefinite time period, until she felt "ready to cook again"! LOL) But you will be here for vacation, and I think it would be ok to indulge a little bit - at least my always-eager-to-go-overboard Greek mind thinks so!

5 things to buy:

1. Well, nowadays, you can buy pretty much anything, regardless of where you live. But if you would like to buy some things that are produced almost exclusively in Greece, so that you would get better quality for lower prices, I would definitely suggest some olive oil (just make sure to check with the safety precautions about transporting liquid stuff in the US - the only thing that I know first hand is that it is OK to transport olive oil from Greece to Germany).

2. Then, I would personally go for some spices. Thyme, rosemary, therapeutical herbs, or whatever else is not widely available in the US in "normal" prices. My personal favourite is mastic, which is a miracle product that deserves a post of its own. It can be used both for cooking/baking purposes, and beauty home treatments (it's been ages since we last had one here, but still...)

3. One cool souvenir is the komboloi. It consists of beads that may resemble prayer beads, but hold no religious significance whatsoever. It can be constructed by any material, but amber is considered to be the best. Greek komboloi typically has an odd number of beads, and it is a good way to relieve the stress, pass the time, or make the people next to you pull their hair out in agony!

4. Greeks are quite superstitious, and they believe in the "evil eye". It refers to a person who is terribly jealous of you, for any reason, and thus consciously or not wishes your unhappiness. As a result, he/she sends negative vibes towards you, against which you have to be protected. Well, it all sounds pretty mystical and voodoo like, but it is much more simple than that. For example, when a person emphatically admires your dress (even if he/she has NO bad intentions at all), it is believed that you are quite possible to stumble, have an accident, tear it or stain it. So, he/she has to say out loud "I don't want to put my evil eye on you" and you have to spit inside your blouse (well, no actual saliva involved, it is just a mimic reaction)!

Ok, by now you definitely think that Greeks are crazy. I won't argue with you - but I will get to the main point of this paragraph, which is talismans against the evil eye! They are a great souvenir, and you can either buy a single blue bead to wear in your bracelet or necklace, or a larger one, to hang at your favourite part of the house (or somewhere private, so that you don't have to explain this whole crazy story!)

5. Finally, it is always a great idea to get Greek sandals, or Greek embroidery - or both.

Well, as always, this post has gotten longer that originally expected. So, I'll show some mercy and stop for now. I will come back soon with the 3rd (and hopefully, the last) part about Greek etiquette, DOs and DON'Ts, and generally some insights on the Greek thinking and way of life. Because I believe that you cannot really see a country, until you've met and tried to understand its people... See you!